[geeks] Watches was: hub needed

Chris Byrne chris at chrisbyrne.com
Mon Jan 20 21:43:07 CST 2003


> -----Original Message-----
> From: geeks-bounces at sunhelp.org 
> [mailto:geeks-bounces at sunhelp.org] On Behalf Of Dan Sikorski
> 
> Might you be able to suggest a few manufacturers, or watches in
> particular that are of higher quality and fits in one or both 
> of the two
> above solutions?
> 

Ok, there are a couple of factors to consider.

1. Size: How big are your hands, and how big of a watch do you want
2. Features: Is there anything special you'd like the watch to do i.e.
chronograph, multi time zones, alarms etc...
3. Bracelet or strap
4. Price: Ok failry complicated question here. Do you just want a  nice
watch that will last, or do you want something for your kids to inherit

The bottom end of the "good" watch scale comes in around $200-$500. In
that range you have the lowest end of some manufacturers, the highest
end of others, and a few lesser known manufacturers. Most movements here
will be quartz with a few manual and a very few automatics coming in at
that pricerange. The cheapest automatic movement I've yet seen is on the
swatch that Bill has, and in general swatch makes reasonable low end
watches.

The features you are looking for here are the number of jewels in the
movement if a manual or automatic, and the overall quality of
construction and materials. If it's a bracelet watch how are the links
formed. Are they cast, machined, Folded, or rolled into shape (avoid
most folded or rolled link bracelets. They tend to catch arm hair, trap
moisture causing rust etc... Is there a screw down crown? What is the
crystal made of? What is the guarnatee/warrantee?

If it is a chronograph then look at how precise a measurement it can
make, and will it do splits, pauses, and combines.

Brands in this price range are many, but only a few I'd recommend.
Tissot is definitely a good bet, and most of their product line fits
into this range. Same goes for Movado. Hamiltons are also in this price
range for some of their lower end models. In fact they even have a
couple of automatic movements in this range. Zodiac has several models
in this pricerange including a couple of automatics. The low end of
Bulova come in to this range. The very bottom end of the Omega range is
also in (or really just above) the $500 bracket, but at that point
you're paying for the name, and the same goes for TAG. Ivf you're gonna
buy one you might as well lay out the cash for a good one right. 

If you look down market a little, the TOP end of Festina, Citizen,
Invicta, and Seiko are all in this range. None of them are really
repairable, and they're 5 year watches not 30 or fifty year watches, but
they'll give you a watch that more than good enough for most people.
Also Wenger, Luminox, Chase Durer, Raymond Weil, Suunto (they make
seriously good digital watches with compasses altimeters dive meters
etc..), Wittenaur, Esq, 

Oh and a strap is generaly 10-30% cheaper than a bracelet, even on the
same watch. That's just for a plain steel bracelet. Most high end
watches can be affixed to a solid gold bracelet (or some other type
whatever you prefer) and often the bracelet can be of higher value then
the movement. My stepfathers watch for example has a $2,000 movement
attached to a $10,000 bracelet. Straps tend to top out around the $300
mark for one of the custom leather straps with expanding metal clasp
similar to the ones that Rolex use. 


Tissot

http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,85732

Movado
http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,79630
http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,79631

Hamilton
http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,81737
http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,81738
http://www.wristwatch.com/indices.asp,,iid,,81739


The next price range is where you start to get into very good watches.
It generally covers from $500 to $1500 or so and include most of the TAG
product line, about half of the Omega product line, the top of the
Hamilton line and some of the smaller swiss manufacturers, as well as
the midrange of the bulova line and a bunch of other "good brands". 

My recommendation here is to go for the omega. Yeah you can get a better
watch in this price range (the top end hamiltons are truly excellent
watches, and some of the lesser known companies are amazing)but Omega
have a fairly high resale value, and there are lots of people willing to
offer very deep discounts on them. 

Bascially in this price range movements start changing from quartz to
manual, and from manual to automatic depending on where the manufacturer
sees themselves in the pricing scale. You should only find high quality
bracelets with good clasps (or the equivalent quality of strap) in this
range. 


Above $1500 up to $2500 we have the high end watches. This covers the
mid-high end of the Omega line, the same for Bulgari, the highest of the
TAG, and the majority of the universal geneve line, and the low to mid
range breitling and longines. Sometimes the very bottom end of Rolex can
be found in this price range, but once again you're paying for the name.


For my money the best watch in this price range is the Breitling, but
theres some pretty strong differences of opinion. Once again there are
small lesser known swiss makers of incredible quality in this price
range. 

Almost all watches in this range are automatic. If they arent theres a
specific reason why. Some of them for example are multifucntion analog
digital combinations or have a built in radio or summat, and some of
them are just incredible quality manual. 

Above $2500 you get into premium watches (also called heirloom or
investment grade). These watches can got into the high six figures mark
for the movement alone never mind the bracelet. They include the top end
of Universal Geneve, Breitling, Rolex, IWC, Zenith, Omega, Bulgari,
Baume et Mercier, all of the Patek Philippe and Cartier, and a whole
bunch of semi-custom makers that basically charge whatever the market
will bear.

Rolexes have greatresale value, but are higly inflated at retail. Don't
buy a new one. You can get a better used one than the new ones for less
money. Just make sure you get one with a mineral or sapphire crystal
because the old plastic crystals have to be replaced every few years.
You can get a good used Rolex for less than 2 grand, sometimes less than
a grand if you look carefully.

The top end of the omegas are GREAT watches, but overpriced. The top end
of breitling are amazing. There are literally dozens of smaller
manufatureres turning out watches of such quality you will die before
the watch does. 

If you want to see some true investment grade watches check these places
out

http://www.grayandsons.com/
http://www.atlantictime.com/

Heres a neat little piece on watch hirtory
http://www.secondtimeround.com/Watch%20History.htm

They


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