[rescue] Fixed LCD's?

Joshua Boyd jdboyd at jdboyd.net
Wed Feb 19 13:17:17 CST 2014


For people in the US at least.  If you go to sparkfun.com and buy their sparkfun branded soldering iron with separate power supply for about $45, you will get a good enough unit for serious getting started.

If you go to RadioShack and get their more than $50 but less than $100 store brand iron, it will probably be good enough to get started.

If you search the web and get an Auyoe 936 or 937 it will also probably be good enough.


On February 19, 2014 2:07:55 PM EST, hike <mh1272 at gmail.com> wrote:
>Frankly, a recommendation for "you can get a decent no
>name iron for 40 or sob is not very helpful for someone without any
>experience in this area.  Without a manufacturer model number, it is
>impossible for a novice to decide whether a bno name ironb is
>actually a
>good soldering iron.  Specifics help novices find things (and possibly
>knowledgable people to help in learning).
>
>
>
>On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Nick B <nick at pelagiris.org> wrote:
>
>> Yeah, while I would not use a 8$ radio shack iron you can get a
>decent no
>> name iron for 40 or so, and a solder sucker for a few bucks.  Sure,
>they
>> won't last long, buy even a hakko iron is only 100 on the low end,
>new.  3
>> or 400 is a hell of a lot of iron.
>> Nick
>> On Feb 18, 2014 5:13 PM, "Toby Thain" <toby at telegraphics.com.au>
>wrote:
>>
>> > On 18/02/14 4:57 PM, hike wrote:
>> >
>> >> So and based on the information in the thread, it takes at least
>$300 of
>> >> equipment/stuff to de-solder a failed cap and resolver a new cap. 
>This
>> is
>> >> in addition to learning to solder well enough to tackle this
>process.
>>  So,
>> >> hereb s another reason people chuck failed LCDs in the binb the
>high
>> cost
>> >> of
>> >> entry to be able to do repairs.  I would think that I would have
>to sell
>> >> 10
>> >> repaired monitors to cover the cost of equipment/supplies.
>> >>
>> >> The second set of suggested equipment with supplies would be at
>least
>> $800
>> >> and that would make the break even point even further out.
>> >>
>> >> So while some lament the fact of failed hardware being thrown out,
>it
>> >> really is a good choice just to take to the recycle and buy a new
>one at
>> >> the store/eBay/Craigslist/NewEgg.  (For us, there is a recycle
>place at
>> >> the
>> >> dump where we take our garbage.  No extra gas needed.)
>> >>
>> >> The biggest issues for me personally are (1) finding someone or
>some
>> place
>> >> to train me how to do this process
>> >>
>> >
>> > http://badcaps.net
>> >
>> > Replace bulging/leaking capacitors.
>> >
>> > There, you're trained. That site will also teach you to make other
>simple
>> > repairs, like the 18 cent resistor that I mentioned which restored
>a 24"
>> > Samsung. Search on the model numbers and board numbers.
>> >
>> > The hardest part of the process is *opening* the damn things.
>> >
>> > > and (2) how to find $300 in my already
>> >
>> > Doesn't cost $300. You can do this with a soldering iron and a
>brain.
>> >
>> >  tight budget.  A minor issue is finding a supplier of failed LCDs.
>>  There
>> >> are several businesses that I could contact close to me.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> > That should be the easy part. Any dealer in used computer parts
>will be
>> > aware of this problem of "mysteriously dead LCDs" -- usually aged
>3-5
>> years
>> > or "just outside warranty".
>> >
>> > Your hit rate should be something like 90% from my experience.
>> >
>> > --Toby
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > rescue list - http://www.sunhelp.org/mailman/listinfo/rescue
>> _______________________________________________
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