[rescue] Fixed LCD's?

[hike]

Thanks, Steve, for the encouragement and information.

Looking at the Hakko FX-888D on Amazon, I gathered that additional tips
would be needed.

My philosophy of learning stuff is different than most people.  The better
or best equipment makes it easier for the novice to learn.  Getting good
results from crappy equipment is certainly a lot easier for the expert.
 Thatbs my experience with musical instruments and keyboards.

Thanks


On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 2:07 PM, hike <mh1272 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Frankly, a recommendation for "you can get a decent no
> name iron for 40 or sob is not very helpful for someone without any
> experience in this area.  Without a manufacturer model number, it is
> impossible for a novice to decide whether a bno name ironb is actually
a
> good soldering iron.  Specifics help novices find things (and possibly
> knowledgable people to help in learning).
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Nick B <nick at pelagiris.org> wrote:
>
>> Yeah, while I would not use a 8$ radio shack iron you can get a decent no
>> name iron for 40 or so, and a solder sucker for a few bucks.  Sure, they
>> won't last long, buy even a hakko iron is only 100 on the low end, new.  3
>> or 400 is a hell of a lot of iron.
>> Nick
>> On Feb 18, 2014 5:13 PM, "Toby Thain" <toby at telegraphics.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> > On 18/02/14 4:57 PM, hike wrote:
>> >
>> >> So and based on the information in the thread, it takes at least $300
>> of
>> >> equipment/stuff to de-solder a failed cap and resolver a new cap.
>>  This is
>> >> in addition to learning to solder well enough to tackle this process.
>>  So,
>> >> hereb s another reason people chuck failed LCDs in the binb the high
>> cost
>> >> of
>> >> entry to be able to do repairs.  I would think that I would have to
>> sell
>> >> 10
>> >> repaired monitors to cover the cost of equipment/supplies.
>> >>
>> >> The second set of suggested equipment with supplies would be at least
>> $800
>> >> and that would make the break even point even further out.
>> >>
>> >> So while some lament the fact of failed hardware being thrown out, it
>> >> really is a good choice just to take to the recycle and buy a new one
>> at
>> >> the store/eBay/Craigslist/NewEgg.  (For us, there is a recycle place at
>> >> the
>> >> dump where we take our garbage.  No extra gas needed.)
>> >>
>> >> The biggest issues for me personally are (1) finding someone or some
>> place
>> >> to train me how to do this process
>> >>
>> >
>> > http://badcaps.net
>> >
>> > Replace bulging/leaking capacitors.
>> >
>> > There, you're trained. That site will also teach you to make other
>> simple
>> > repairs, like the 18 cent resistor that I mentioned which restored a 24"
>> > Samsung. Search on the model numbers and board numbers.
>> >
>> > The hardest part of the process is *opening* the damn things.
>> >
>> > > and (2) how to find $300 in my already
>> >
>> > Doesn't cost $300. You can do this with a soldering iron and a brain.
>> >
>> >  tight budget.  A minor issue is finding a supplier of failed LCDs.
>>  There
>> >> are several businesses that I could contact close to me.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> > That should be the easy part. Any dealer in used computer parts will be
>> > aware of this problem of "mysteriously dead LCDs" -- usually aged 3-5
>> years
>> > or "just outside warranty".
>> >
>> > Your hit rate should be something like 90% from my experience.
>> >
>> > --Toby
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > rescue list - http://www.sunhelp.org/mailman/listinfo/rescue
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