[rescue] Sun 21" CRTs (was: Feedback on Sun 24" LCD?)

Brian Deloria bdeloria at gmail.com
Mon Jul 7 18:45:09 CDT 2008


> Is that the Sun 21" true flat or the 21" 'half' flat (flat vertically,
>> curved horizontally).
>>
>> I have one of each... and the true flat had an issue recently where it
>> made a noise
>> and the screen went fuzzy, it self corrected, did it again, self
>> corrected, then did it
>> again, and wasn't correcting... so I turned it off and back on and it
>> corrected.
>>
>> Then I think it did it one more time.  It hasn't done it since, and the
>> monitor is
>> crisp.. only thing is on the dark blue/purplish background when waking it
>> up,
>> I see some fine red lines running 30 degree 'uphill' from left to right on
>> the
>> background... but then the windows (mostly white) refresh, and then if I
>> switch
>> to an empty desktop I don't see it... so unsure what it is.
>>
>> Are these notorious for failing ?  Should I be planning a retirement party
>> for it ?
>> (I surely wouldn't mind saving the power, but it is a damn nice CRT, so
>> I'd hate
>> to lose it).
>>
>> -- Curt
>>
>> Most of the ones that are still in use are attached to PC's.  Most of the
u60's are gone with the exception of a few odd ball ones here and there.
The ones that are attached to desktops are more often traded out because the
user complains about a lack of desktop space or they have flat panel envy.

The problem with the popping could also be the anode wire coming from the
flyback to the tube.  I've seen it where there was a defective suction cup
on there, every minute or so it would build up enough of a charge and
discharge out edge of the suction cup to the grounding harness around the
edge of the tube.  This would also let out a nice pop and make the screen go
black for a few seconds.

Word of caution though, watch out for the juice on those.  I've only done
some limited repairs on monitors but the one thing that I learned while
doing it in college was to always discharge the flyback.  If you didn't have
a tool you could do it with a simple piece of wire, or what I eventually did
was take a long flat bladed screwdriver (12" long, tip was 1/8 th) attach an
aligator clip from the shaft to the grounding harness, discharge and remove
that and then touch up any neccessary solder joints.  We had a large number
of Acer monitors there that were bought because of low bid without
consideration of the operating and maintenance costs in college.

That would be my safety suggestion however it's also been a good number of
years and may not entirely be safe.

Thanks,

Brian



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