[SPARCbook] Error Codes Sparcbook 3xs
Ian Spray
ian_spray at tadpole.com
Mon Apr 11 09:16:31 CDT 2005
On 10 Apr, 2005, at 09:58, J Tingle wrote:
> I took the battery out and just got the B4 code and a white screen. I
> tried a different battery I have and got the F02 again.
>
Looks like you have two dead batteries, or a problem with the unit: to
be honest I don't have a working battery for my S3 anymore (hence my
comment in the FAQ a couple of years ago about using a 12v lead acid
cell into the external input).
> Yeah I think you are right. I don't have much hope for this one. I
> bought 3 sparcbooks off ebay. The first 3gx I bought was perfect,
> 128mb of ram, working battery, hdd caddy, clear scratch free screen.
> So I bought 2 more sparcbooks from the same guy thinking they would be
> of similar quality. That was a mistake. One is the dead 3sx and the
> other is a 3gx that has a bad screen(very dim) and a slight burnt
> plastic smell like it is overheating. Anyone need some a couple
> sparcbooks for parts :).
>
The dim one probably just needs new tubes in the backlight, so if
you're adventurous you could try taking apart the other dead machine
and either:
a) opening up the LCD on each (and I mean right inside, into the white
plastic casing within the headshell) and swapping tubes, which is a
risky operation even with enough bench space and practice
b) if the screen resolutions are the same, simply take the headshell
off the unknown unit and swap it for the dim one - you might get lucky
!
To take the headshell off have a google - there were some pretty good
pictorial guides, but basically remove the single screw on the
underside in the middle and towards the rear of the unit. This is the
main release for the headshell and you ought to find that the whole
assembly can be lifted vertically from the unit a small amount. The
whole area above the keyboard to the rear of the machine will also lift
up, and you should see two armoured cables running from the screen down
onto the main board.
Note which cables goes to which socket (they might not cover all of the
available pins) and lever them off. Repeat on the other unit, and then
put the new screen onto the other base board, and put the plugs back,
but boy, is that a fiddly step. Take your time. Don't have pets or
small children around to help - I've found it is often easier to have a
long (4" or so) thin flat head screwdriver handy, as well as the
thinnest longest nosed pair of pliers you can find. Hold the cable in
the pliers (above the plug at about the point where all of the wire can
fit into the pliers one wire deep - ie: not in a circular bunch), keep
the LCD assembly propped at an angle behind the machine with some
books, and place the cable onto the pins. I then used the screwdriver
to lever the plug downwards, with some help pushing the plug down with
the pliers to.
Sorry - it's been years since I did this, and I can't recall _exactly_
the procedure. This is also not the way we repaired them, but I never
got to read the official documents so made this up for the odd times I
needed to do it.
Needless to say, all of this advice is to be used with caution, and if
you're not comfortable then don't start the job ! I may be confusing
this with one of the other laptops and nothing above works, in which
case you're really on your own ;)
Oh, and it's worth scaring up a Sun 8-pin Mini-DIN serial cable and
putting that into the serial socket (middle one, I recall) just to see
if the dead unit really is dead. If you can get to where you think OBP
might be active, hit Pause+A and then type:
ttya io
on the internal keyboard. If it's alive, then you ought to be a
9600,8n1 datastream out of it, and all I/O will be taken from the
external port. You then know it's worth trying to fix the display, or
perhaps fixing the I/O to be ttya all the time and using it as a low
power server.
HTH,
--
Ian Spray | Software Engineer | Tadpole Computer Ltd.
ian_spray at tadpole.com | http://hw.tadpole.com | +44 (0) 870 432 4161
GPG Fingerprint: B579 CB8D A4F4 84EA FAEE A87A A3CC 28E7 7ADC F47C
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